Leaving Gibraltar, Gibraltar at 11:25am (+02:00) on Wednesday the 20th of September 2023 and arriving in La Linea de la Conception, Spain at 11:40am (+02:00) on Wednesday the 20th of September 2023
Another fast border crossing
I woke up early and climbed the Rock before sunrise. It was very doable! I went via the Moorish castle, and was high up on the west side by sunrise, but not over the top. Then I wound my way through the nature reserve, detouring around paths that looked interesting, and avoiding big roads, not that there was any traffic. I found the suspension bridge, but didn't cross it due to intimidating macaques whom I didn't not want to jump on my head over an enormous drop.
The day got hotter and I met a few runners and nature reserve staff.
There are some steep steps running straight down the middle in one area, linking various horizontal tracks together. Generally all of the tracks are very accessible, most are for vehicles.
My route down was via the mediterranean steps, which was absolutely gorgeous. Over the east side of the Rock, it was suddenly quiet. The steps were scrambly and wild, and there were lots of caves.
I got back down later than expected, and couldn't take a bus back to the town center because they didn't take card or give change! So I walked, fast, in time to check out from the hostel.
I wanted brunch and a nice sit down at a tea shop, but decided realistically I needed to march straight back over the border to La Linea bus station. It's a good job I did, because I discovered that the bus I wanted to get to Malaga was full. Somehow not at all panicked, I jumped on the next bus back to Algeciras, and texted K to help me buy a ticket for the next Algeciras-Malaga bus in the meantime, in case that was full by the time I got there. Phew.
The ferry from Tanger to Tarifa arrived quite late. In my wisdom, I decided to get the FRS bus from Tarifa to Algeciras because it's included with the ferry ticket... but that left very late too. Then I got lost in Algeciras (which as a whole did not leave a good impression on me) between the port and the bus station, and missed two buses to La Linea, setting be back even further. The bus I did finally catch from Algeciras was fast, and the walk from the bus station at La Linea to the border is short and straightforward. There were no crowds or lines.
When I got to the hostel I had to wait around for someone to arrive to let me in. So my whole prospective afternoon in Gibraltar was gone, alas.
I went for a wander, and stopped for motivational ice cream. I was trying to work out whether I should take the cable car to the top of the Rock (expensive) and walk down (dark soon?), or if I should just walk up in the morning (is it accessible? How long would it take?). Taxi drivers trying to sell tours to the top insisted that walking up was impossible, which if anything made me more determined to try it. I did agree with them that the cable car pricing is extortionate, however. And then it's another £20 on top of that to get into the nature reserve. Hmm. I approached the botanical gardens, which were open until sunset, but was accosted by a taxi driver trying to fill a car he already had a couple of takers for. In the moment, still undecided about my itinerary and wanting to make best use of my very limited time, I conceded, and joined a French couple on the ride to the top (for 25eur).
I'm glad I did. The taxi driver (Ryan) was lovely and related a little bit of history but more day-to-day life and economics of Gibraltar, all of which is new and interesting to me. He introduced us to some macaque friends, and we talked about Scotland as well. The ride took about an hour, and gave me a good preview of the top and convinced me that it was definitely climbable at sunrise the next day... He also pointed out that going up before 9 means I don't have to pay the entrance fee to the nature reserve.
I had dinner at a slightly fancy place by the water, then ran to Morrisons in time to get supplies for my early morning adventure, before bed. I got back to the hostel to meet an aggressive cat, and find I was sharing my dorm only with one other person.
Leaving La Linea de la Conception, Spain at 6:20pm (+02:00) on Tuesday the 19th of September 2023 and arriving in Gibraltar, Gibraltar at 6:40pm (+02:00) on Tuesday the 19th of September 2023
Short walk, no delay in customs or passport control