Leaving Paris, France at 3:09pm (+01:00) on Wednesday the 12th of March 2025 and arriving in London, UK at 4:30pm (+00:00) on Wednesday the 12th of March 2025
Swapped my ticket at the gate for an earlier train. No fee and no hassle!
Leaving Basel, Switzerland at 10:22am (+01:00) on Wednesday the 12th of March 2025 and arriving in Strasbourg, France at 11:40am (+01:00) on Wednesday the 12th of March 2025
Arrived 7 minutes late.
Despite the hiccup in Gibraltar, I managed to get to Malaga in time for the 7 hour train to Barcelona. This ran late, quickly eating up 25 of the 31 minutes I had to catch the last train to Cardedeu. Barcelona Sants is huge, and I had no idea where to go; Renfe staff were no help at all. I did a bunch of research on the station to work out where the regional trains were likely to be, and decided I get a taxi to Cardedeu rather than sleep in the station or walk into town for a very expensive hostel. Off the train, dodging slow pullers of suitcases, I saw no signs to the regional trains, and had to pause to ask someone. I sprinted in the direction pointed, to be met by a wall of ticket barriers, too robust to climb over or squeeze through. My interrail pass never opens barriers, and there were no staff in sight. Fortunately a nice lady let me tailgate behind her. I continued to run, unable to see the train I was expecting on a screen, but aware it was an R2 (but there are 3 R2 lines, all going to different places, and I didn't know the end destination). I saw a train that was a candidate, ran down the wrong stairs, back up again, down the right stairs, determined it was my train as it began to pull away.... I kept running in desperation, onto the platform... and it stopped. And opened the doors.
Eternal thanks to that driver, and thank goodness this thing is run by human beings and not computers.
So I made it to Cardedeu to stay with B, very late, and woke up E.
But it was wonderful to see B. The next day we had coffee, walked around the town, and got tasty food from a market stall.
And then I set off again. Back to Sants for a train to Latour de Carol. This train was slow, winding through beautiful mountains. A busker in the carriage made it feel like a dream. The journey reminded me of my 2013 interrail through Austria.
The night train to Paris was waiting, and I found my bunk straight away. Another great train sleep.
Another walk across Paris, this time in torrential rain. My Eurostar was delayed by an hour and a half. Thank goodness for LNER being flexible about interrail passes. I made it to Edinburgh about three quarters of an hour later than expected, which is not too bad in the grand scheme of things.
Leaving Latour-de-Carol-Enveitg, France at 6:49pm (+02:00) on Thursday the 21st of September 2023 and arriving in Paris, France at 6:33am (+02:00) on Friday the 22nd of September 2023
These night trains are so great, worth the reservation price
Leaving Barcelona, Spain at 2:31pm (+02:00) on Thursday the 21st of September 2023 and arriving in Latour-de-Carol-Enveitg, France at 5:51pm (+02:00) on Thursday the 21st of September 2023
Another slow regionales train. But a gorgeous journey.
The journey to TPAC begins. An early train from Edinburgh to London, Eurostar to Paris, then an afternoon of wandering around Paris in the scorching sun. Cake at Cloud Cakes, and dinner and supplies from Land & Monkeys.
I had to walk from Nord to Austerlitz station, but had many hours to do it in. I wandered along the Seine, and found a sculpture park, and platforms by the water with people dancing.
After dark I waited in Austerlitz, for the night train to Toulouse. The night train was way more comfortable than I expected. The bed was comfy, the temperature in the cabin was perfect, my cabinmates were silent, and the train sounds were very soothing. Better night's sleep than I'd have had in a hotel in Toulouse, if I'd taken a fast train earlier. Definitely recommend.
From Toulouse I took a local train to Narbonne, and then from Narbonne the long distance Renfe train to Madrid. I'd hoped to reserve a seat on the next available train from Madrid to Seville and arrive at a reasonable time, but after being passed between three different Renfe ticket offices (after taking a number and waiting in line each time) I was told that the next available train wasn't until 8pm. So I waited for three hours, and arrived after midnight. At least I made it.
Unexpectedly amazing sleep on the Paris to Toulouse night train. Probably because I tired myself out stomping randomly around Paris all afternoon. But comfortable couchette, silent co-passengers, dark berth, reasonable AC and soothing train noises certainly helped!
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The plan was to visit every country in the EU (before March 2019 for reasons). The plan was to spend at least a month in each one, ideally in one place, and just kind of absorb the surroundings. I alternate remote laptop work with city wandering, rural hiking, chilling out with the kindle in parks, coffeeshops, and vegan cafes.
Things haven't gone quite to plan so far though. I've been pulled around by people and events, in no logical order. Not complaining, but I really need to slow down for a while.
My stay in Budapest was cut short on both ends, as at the beginning of March I had the opportunity to stay with Elizabeth and her family in Ljubljana for a long weekend. On the 21st of March, began a Vipassana meditation course in Mariazelle, Austria. I'd applied to sit, then agreed to serve when they emailed to say they were short-handed.
Dreading the complicated and lengthy public transport options to the Austrian mountains, at the last minute I managed to catch a ride with another meditation student from Budapest. I made no onward travel plans, guessing I could wing it at the end of the course; I wanted to be in Bratislava, but was confident I'd get a lift at least to Vienna.
I did. I slept almost the whole way and was surprised to find myself deposited in a random suburb around 11am. I metro'd to Erdberg bus station, which is not particularly well located. Oh also it was Easter Sunday. Nothing was functioning. No coffee, no food. The bus station was open, but their internet was down. Which meant... they couldn't sell any tickets. I was told to hang about half an hour, then buy a ticket from the driver on the next bus to Bratislava. The bus was full. Next bus in an hour. I went back into the station and it seemed that the internet was back on, and they were frantically selling tickets to frantic people. I joined a line. By the time I got to the front of the line, the internet was broken again. I asked after the nearest wifi hotspot, and was told to go to MacDonald's two subway stops away. That seemed like a hassle, so I wandered into the main bus pickup area, and hopped onto a FlixBus network for just long enough to buy a ticket for the next Bratislava bus with the Flix app, which I'd had the great foresight to download and hook up to my paypal right before I left the meditation center. Onwards.
Bratislava was a stop-gap. My next 'pull' was to meet my sister in Vienna. We hadn't seen each other for about three years, and she was over from the US for a conference. Her AirBnB was covered, so she agreed to let me sleep on the couch. Vienna is expensive, and spending a full two weeks there wasn't hugely appealing; hence Bratislava.
Good choice! I loved that city.
Vienna airport is about half way between Vienna and Bratislava in fact, so my sister caught a late bus after her flight landed and stayed in my AirBnBs for two nights in Bratislava. I packed a majority of my touristing in during the last two days of her visit.
We took a dead cheap and great quality Regiojet bus back to Vienna. We left our luggage in the FREE!!! lockers in the main Bratislava bus station for the first half of the day. I spent the week in Vienna working, indispersed with a little wandering and my first ~ ever ~ visit to a hair salon. There are plenty of vegan food options, including a bakery right in Stefansplatz metro station, though I mostly cooked in the flat. On my sister's free day, we hiked through vinyards to the eastern most foothill of the Alps (or something).
I caught an exceptionally good value Regiojet train to Brno, next. On the Vipassana retreat in Mariazelle I shared a room with P, who subsequently invited me to visit her in South Moravia any time. Since my next 'pull', a week after Vienna, was to Lyon for TheWebConf, and there are good Prague-Lyon bus connections, this is where I went next.
I spent a delightful week staying with P, her sister and parents in Hustopece. We synchronised our work hours, and when we were both free she took me to visit attractions in local villages, and for long walks in nature. We meditated together mornings and evenings almost every day. P is a yoga teacher; I joined her classes when there was space.
It so happened that P also needed to be in Prague on the 21st of April. We took the bus from Brno the night before, and stayed with her friend. In the evening we took a touristy river cruise, and went to Loving Hut. The next morning we walked from the suburbs to Prague Castle, and ate a good breakfast together.
I bussed to Lyon via Munich. The latter half of the journey was full of frustrated people, constant interruptions by the Swiss police, and general chaos. I didn't sleep much.
I have been to Lyon twice before, with my high school French exchange program. I've done the tourist things, though I don't remember them. I stayed with a friend, and mostly my time was filled with TheWebConf and trying to work. It was a hot and sunny week. I got to see a few people I haven't seen for a while and whom I was very happy indeed to spend time with. I almost didn't come to WebConf. France is the wrong direction. But I'm glad I did.
The week wound down quietly. With a late bus on Saturday night I spent the day between the library (wifi sucks, ports blocked), the river bank, YAAFA (no wifi, good falafel) and Perrache bus station (excellent wifi, seats, power).
I arrived to Munich bright and early, left my bag in a bus station locker, and explored.
Next stop Krakow, via another night bus. This time I was headed for a hostel, so I got to sleep in a bed. I explored the town center, and ate some good stuff. After brunch the next day I took a train to Gdynia. This was five hours, and much more expensive than Rome2Rio had led me to believe it would be, but such is life. I could've for half the price taken a 10 hour bus or a night train, but I kind of just wanted to be on my way.
In Gdynia my new landlady picked me up from the train station, I signed a one month lease for a room in a shared flat, and thus begins, at long last, the slowing down.
Mostly I cooked for myself or ate (terrible) conference food, but on a couple of occasions I ate out in Lyon...
Arriving by nightbus first thing on a Sunday morning didn't yield a lot of breakfast options. Aux Bonheurs des Chats, a vegan cat cafe, opened at 11 though, so I waited.
A wonderful decision! I sat down at a window table, already occupied by a moggie who declined to move, and inched closer and closer to my laptop over the course of the morning. Everything was covered in hair. They offered brunch for 16eur which seemed a bit much, and I wasn't that hungry. I had a hazelnut chocolate brownie (big!) and a super creamy matcha latte.
Good burgers, lots of different toppings, and coleslaw or potato wedges as a side, and some vegan cakes. Small meal deal (drink and side) or large (plus dessert) at 13 and 15eur respectively. I just ate a burger and potato wedges.
A trek across town and up a hill was absolutely worth it. The menu wasn't huge, which means I wasn't paralysed by choice. Between two of us, we shared two starters, two mains, and two desserts, which came to 49eur. Delicious gazpacho soup, and an avocado mush thing were the starters. The avocado mush was seated upon a cheesecake-like grount nut crust, and topped with dark chocolate flakes. It was as close to dessert as you can get without actually being sweet. The mains were seitan with bok choi and mango noodles, and a burger with baby potatoes. And the desserts were two tiny cakes; one with chocolate and one with pear. I loved all of it. It was also a nice cosy place, with friendly staff and witty signage.
Recommended for the 'potato things', and it was open late, and there is a branch not too far from the bus station, I went to YAAFA on my last afternoon. There are many falafel pita options, half of which are vegan (all vegetarian), plus homemade bottomless lemonade and iced tea, and indeed good potato things - something between wedges and US style homefries. I had a falafel pitta with orange carrot salad, and stayed there for several hours. Seating upstairs was nice. No wifi.
Not far from the Part-Dieu train station and the central library is a big glass fronted cafe on a corner. Stopped in for coffee, and to enjoy sitting in the sun whilst still being inside, and spotted a chia bowl with coconut milk on the menu. It was pricey, but a nice breakfast.
I stopped by this all vegan supermarket just to see. Picked up some Vego of course, and some chocolate almond milk and tofu sausage to snack on for lunch. They have a whole arrary of fancy looking vegan cheese wheels, in good French style. Had I come here at the beginning of the week, I might have invested.
I didn't do any touristing in Lyon, I was just at TheWebConf.
Leaving Paris, France at 6:00am (+01:00) on Friday the 8th of May 2015 and arriving in Dusseldorf, Germany at 2:00pm (+01:00) on Friday the 8th of May 2015
Leaving London, UK at 10:30am (+01:00) on Sunday the 3rd of May 2015 and arriving in Paris, France at 6:00pm (+01:00) on Sunday the 3rd of May 2015