Sweden & Finland, Mar 23
Adventure in the north.
Contains 593 photos, the last of which were added 2 years, 1 month, 1 day, 13 hours, 45 minutes, and 19 seconds ago.
Train from Copenhagen to Malmo, across The Bridge.
A pleasant evening to wander around the coast, looking at fancy new apartment buildings. Dinner at Surf Shack, in lieu of anywhere else nearby being open at that time.
I had planned to spend the morning in Malmo, then take a train to Stockholm in time for my evening ferry connection. But the weather was miserable, so I got on an earlier train to Stockholm.
The weather was still miserable in Stockholm, but I went on a walking tour of the old town, had tasty vegan Swedish 'meat'balls with lingbenberries in Verte, then walked to the ferry port.
The ferry arrived in Turku amidst thick fog and icy waters.
I took a train to Tampere, met friends, and we walked around the snowy city. We ate cake at Cafe Runo, and junk food at HOAX, before heading back to a very busy train station with full trains and broken ticket machines. We managed to get home - to Jyvaskyla - despite this, somehow.
While wandering I stashed my backpack in free lockers in a mall not too far from the station.
Visiting the local snowy woods and frozen lake near Jyvaskyla. In the evening, the 9-year-old taught me to ski. I was already sure skiing would not agree with me, and I confirmed this.
At the top of the slope, as I start to slide: "Can you tell me how to slow down?"
9yo: "We'll get to that later."
I have a video of me falling over, which I'll upload too at some point.
There was a beautifully vibrant sunset though.
Time in Jyvaskyla with S, B, E and J. I adapted quickly to the cold and perma-snow, and managed not to fall over on icy pavements.
Walks out onto the frozen lake were stunning and peaceful.
Climbed the hill in Jyvaskyla but it was too snowy for views. Visited the Museum of Central Finland on what happened to be the city's birthday, so entrance was free.
Was greatly entertained throughout by the wise and thoughtful 9yo E, and the cartoonish delights of 3yo J.
More wandering around Jyvaskyla in the snow. Saw the big lake, and J wanted to sample every playground on the way (there were a lot). Warmed up with cake in Espresso House.
We all took a night bus from Jyvaskyla to Rovaniemi, then another bus to Torvinen and another to Luosto.
I have never seen so much snow before in my life. Feet of it, sitting around like it always had been and always will be. Thick on top of roofs, clumped around fir trees like bulbous growths. Scooped the sides of roads and footpaths like it's nothing, to make space for people to pass. Dotted with footprints from hares and reindeer.
We tried to go for a walk around this epic landscape, but two kiddos straight off a night bus made it difficult. Even with borrowed sleds, there were many tantrums. We took them to the hotel pool instead.
Later we went out again, though everyone was still tired. The hotel reception said there was a nice walk and a wooden hut with a fire, "a little bit up" with good views. We expected a 30 minute walk and a log cabin type thing. We walked for longer than E could stand, lost track of the sign posts sometimes, and climbed a massive hill. We were surrounded on all sides by snow coated fir trees. Some were completely covered, forming beautiful natural sculptures in the snow. It was like a dream world.
The "wooden house" was an amazing modern construction, with heated windows and a wood burning stove. We arrived in time for an incredible sunset over this bizarre alien landscape. Absolutely just... like nothing I've seen before.
We made it down from the hill and finally got some pizza in the tired/cold/hungry kids. The pizza had cloudberries on. Exciting.
We came out of the restaurant and headed back to the hotel. Over our heads... the sky was dancing.
We were there only for a weekend, and we were so incredibly fortunate to have clear skies, no moon, and the right conditions. It lasted for a couple of hours at least.
An adventure on a snow train, up a hill, to an amethyst mine. Where they let us scrabble in the dirt for 20 minutes to find a handful of our own small amethysts. The views from the top were lovely on another bright and clear and extremely freezing day.
In the evening - this time well fed (tonight's pizza had pickled milkcaps on) and better clothed - we went up the hill to the wooden house again. It was another incredibly clear night, and we met other aurora-spotters up there. We caught the end of another beautiful sunset, and stayed for hours in the cosy house. We saw a glimmer of green finally, but it didn't last long.
Our trek down in the dark was greatly helped by two other hikers with their own lights ahead of us, and a headtorch borrowed from a kind local.
And on the move again. We took a bus to Rovaniemi and a train to Kemi. After surprise vegan cake and a friendly welcome in a cafe at Kemi train station, we wandered around the town. It was extremely quiet and sleepy.
We found the famous 'snow castle', which was more of a three foot high snow maze and some terrible sculptures. We found curling, and slides which entertained the kids. And they let us in for free and stored all of our luggage for us for no clear reason.
We walked through a park by the sea - which was frozen! - and to the church in the town center, then back to the bus station.
I said goodbye to S, B, E and J as they boarded a bus back to Jyvaskyla. I stayed, to wait for a local bus to Haparanda, just across the border into Sweden.
From Kemi in Finland to Haparanda in Sweden, by bus. The first thing I saw over the border was a giant Ikea. I checked into my accommodation which was much nicer than expected. Then went to hunt for food, just heading to the closest open restaurant, a Chinese one called Leilani. I was quickly and friendlily informed that all of the vegetarian options could be made vegan. I picked one and it was delicious.
Across the road from the restaurant was an interesting tower. The center of Haparanda was peaceful and seemed like somewhere I'd liked to have spent more time.
I forgot about the timezone switch, so got an hour more sleep than expected.
A trains day!
I had just enough time for a hasty breakfast provided by my accommodation, before a fast march to Haparanda station. I caught a train to Boden, then another to Umea.
I walked along Umea's frozen river, admiring lots of random sculpture and an arts college, into the city center. I had an incredible lunch at Rost, and could happily have stayed there all day.
It was freezing and clear, and every so often a gust would blow powdered snow from trees and rooftops, filling the air with glitter in the sun.
I caught my next train to Stockholm. It was snowing by the time I got there, but I had a few hours to pass, so I stomped around the city center for a while. I had a distressing burger in the Swedish burger chain MAX. Initially excited to find a vegan chocolate milkshake, I regretted all of this junk food later. Then I boarded a night train to Malmo.
I awoke several times in the night to find the train stationary in Linkoping. At 0630, the scheduled arrival time in Malmo, we were 'officially' awoken by an announcement, pointing out to us all that we were still in Linkoping because the train had broken down. I switched to the next fast train to Malmo, which was still 3 hours, though we were given the option to stay on board and await repairs and then stay on the slow (5 hour) route.
I had planned a day in Malmo before my next connection, and used my interrail pass for the journey, so promises of refunds and reimbursements for missed connections were not at all useful to me. In the end, Swedish Trains did say they'd pay up to &eur;20 towards my food in Malmo, which was nice.
The rest of the day, shortened as it was, was lovely. All trace of snow had gone, the sun was out and the sky was blue. I wandered. Took photos. Sat on benches. Wandered some more.
I had breakfast in Farm2Table, which was very lovely and I could have stayed there all day. I went to the Form Design Museum, which was free, and they kindly stored my backpack for me until mid-afternoon. Inside was an exhibit about the carbon cost of different materials, showing how much of each you can get for 1kg of C02. I was, naturally, most interested in the mycelium boards.
I walked around the gardens and grounds surrounding Malmo Castle, then visited the museum inside. It was wide ranging, from local to natural history, to modern art, and lots of climate change related stuff.
I had lunch in Vegegarden, a delicious Chinese buffet. Then walked to the Moderna Museum, which strictly no-photos, and contained a gallery of modern art about.. you guessed it.. climate change. Some fantastic stuff; a lot of video and audio, as well as dance! (Nothing live while I was there.)
I walked more around a park with a big lake, and then back into town for dinner at Rau. A fancy, expensive, and extremely delicious dinner. Definitely recommend.
Finally I headed back to the train station for a train to Trelleborg. The route from Trelleborg station to the ferry checkin is sort of signposted, but also not obvious at all when you get there. I confirmed I was in the right place with the hotel next door. They also let me use their loo. The waiting room for Stena Line doesn't have wifi or much useful. There were only a couple of other foot passengers. None of the automatic checkin machines were working, and signs said staff would arrive to check us in 40 minutes before departure, despite other signs saying checkin closes 60 minutes before departure.
Staff did eventually turn up, ticked us off, and put us on a bus to the ferry.
This was a &eur;20 ferry ticket, only deck passage. But I was one of two foot passengers in the seating area, and had my pick. There was one power socket, so I posted up on the closest seat to that so I could charge my laptop while I slept. Onwards to Rostock.
(After dinner I noticed I was missing K's borrowed scarf. I emailed all the museums and restaurants and they all replied - it turned up in Vegegarden. A friendly local is going to post it back for me. Hurrah!)
