Breakfast at warungs
There are two wee streetside nasi campur warungs next to each other a few minutes from where I'm staying, on Jalan Nelayan. They don't look inviting, but a couple of days ago I braved one of them and of course, because Balinese people are super friendly and accommodating, I was welcomed and fed.. so if you're ever in two minds about whether somewhere that is obvious extremely local, probably just go in anyway.
In the first one, they didn't really speak any English, and I don't speak Bahasar except for key food-related words, but pointing at food is all you need to navigate. And "kopi" of course. I was too late to ask for without rice, so I had a plateful, including several kinds of green vegetables, alfalfa sprouts, tofu and tempeh, with a sambal so spicy it made my eyes water. The coffee came black, but sugared up. This cost me 10k IDR (60p). Inside is pretty grimy and myself and the food were constantly under siege from very persistent unwaftable flies. But the lady was smiley.
This morning I went to the other one. The people inside were younger and spoke some English include "oh my god is your hair real?!" The overall food selection was smaller but the number and type of veggie things was about the same. I had more or less the same food as before, and it tasted as good. The sambal was less spicy but I also had peanut sauce, and managed to opt out of rice. I asked for no sugar in the coffee, but it was sweet anyway; I think part of the instant mix. This time it was 18k IDR.
The second place was even smaller, and didn't seem to be set up for actually accommodating people, but place was quickly cleared at a table so I could sit down. There were fewer flies, but it was also less hot today. Half way through my meal, an old lady came out from the back, topped up the food in the counter and then stopped to chat. In Bahasar. I understood at one point that she was commenting on the fact I didn't have rice so I was like 'yep, no rice, lots of tofu' and then she rubbed my arms and kept talking and I lost the thread. I nodded and smiled and said terima kasih when she left. I think that went well.