First impressions: much more chill than Penang.
After a totally boring three hour ferry ride in a tiny little boat where I couldn't even see out of the windows, I arrived in Kuah. It was immediately more welcoming than the jetty in George Town. I wandered around Eagle Square which I spotted from the jetty exit, and then towards the town center. Most of this walk was through a seafront park, with a little beach and lots of places to relax. It was very tranquil, and the temperature was pleasantly cooler than I have got used to.
I stopped for some juice and tofu, before getting a taxi to Pantai Tengah, just south of Pantai Cenang. There's no public transport on Langkawi. It was 30 minutes and 30 ringgitts (5 less than if I'd got it directly from the jetty). I booked a hostel last minute; my CS host went AWOL before arranging to meet, and though I had others I could call on I realised I need some alone time.
The hostel is super chill as well, complete with Bob Marley posters and hammocks. It's a five minute walk from the beach, where I went just as the sun was setting. I walked the length of Tengah beach in the lap of the waves, and then along the road to Cenang. This feels like a place people come on holiday, whereas George Town feels like a real place where people live. There are pros and cons for both, but right now the vibe here is exactly what I have been looking for.
The road to Cenang is lined with market stalls and cafes, and bustling with people in sarongs and swimsuits; yet still relaxed. I picked up a coconut, and walked back to Tengah along Cenang beach itself. This, more touristy, beach is lined with little beach bars (coffee, cocktails, shisha), and people in huddles around candles or guitars.
This morning I chilled out in hostel hammocks for a little while before heading to the closest beach. I brought my laptop, but used my backpack to rest my head, and alternated napping and feeling rubbish about the state of the world. I sat in the sea a bit before heading back to the road. I found a cafe, but I think I'll go look for somewhere with a beach view now, then try to do something useful.
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